As a culmination of their year-long series of programs called The Jews of Spain: Past and Present, the American Sephardi Federation joined with Congregation Edmond J. Safra of Manhattan and Ramaz School/Kehillath Jeshurun for a nine-day heritage tour of Spain called Roots of Sefarad. Led by Rabbi Dr. Elie Abadie and Rabbi Haskel Lookstein, the group of 51 Sephardim and Ashkenazim together explored the famous and infamous sites which exemplify the Jewish experience in Spain under Muslim and Christian rule.
Upon arrival in Madrid, the group was met by the Honorable Fernando Villalonga, Consul General of Spain in NY, who had arranged a welcome by the Mayor of Madrid, Alberto Ruiz Gallardón. The group was then treated to a private tour of the Prado Museum. Later in the week, leaders of the Federation of Jewish Communities of Spain and of the Jewish community in Madrid hosted a dinner for the group, and speeches were forthcoming after all had watched Spain win the semi-finals of the World Cup.
Each day brought new sights—both historic and contemporary. The grand history of the Jewish community of Spain, famous for its scholars, academics and statesmen, contrasted sharply with the absence of a strong Jewish presence in Spain today. Daniel Querub, a member of the Jewish community of Madrid who accompanied the Americans on their trip, educated them about the development of Spain’s present Jewish community.
Numbering approximately 30,000, a large influx of immigrants came from Morocco during the 60s and 70s settling mainly in Madrid and Barcelona. They are now joined by Jews from Venezuela and Argentina. The medieval cities famous for their strong Jewish presence—Cordoba, Granada, Toledo, Segovia and Girona—have no Jews living there today.
Consul General Villalonga traveled with the group to Segovia, where they were received by city officials, and Toledo, where Mayor Emiliano Garcia Page, greeted them warmly and gave each a beautiful print rendering of the 14th century El Transito Synagogue, which today forms part of the Sephardi Museum in Toledo.
After a tour of the city of Girona and the Jewish Call that was excavated about 20 years ago, ASF’s good friends, Assumpcio Hosta, Director General of the Red de Juderias (a network overseeing the restoration of Jewish sites in 21 cities of Spain) and Silvia Planas, Director of the Nachmanides Institute and the Jewish History Museum, welcomed the visitors in the museum’s courtyard.
In Barcelona, the group toured the old Jewish Call, visited Monjuic (Hill of the Jews), and witnessed the remains of Jewish tombstones that were used in constructing buildings after the expulsion. They were also welcomed by the Communidad Israelite de Barcelona for their Shabbat prayers and meals.
Representatives of Casa Safarad-Israel in Madrid joined the group for several breakfasts and dinners. This governmental group’s mission is to further the study of the legacy of Sephardic culture as an integral, living part of Spanish culture; foster a better understanding of Jewish culture; and promote the development of the ties of friendship and cooperation between Spanish and Israeli societies.
The group’s tours were enhanced by Rabbis Abadie and Lookstein’s lectures on famous Sepharadim such as Rambam, Ramban, Hasdai ibn Shaprut, and Yehudah Halevi. Their palettes were satisfied with the kosher culinary expertise of Poupee Ellouk.
The group’s final two destinations, Cordoba and Granada, were filled with wonderful sights and touching moments, including the reading of the Edict of Expulsion by Rabbi Lookstein in the Throne Room of the Alhambra. It was a memorable ending to a remarkable trip.
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Ellen Cohen is membership and outreach coordinator and Lynne Winters, director of programming for the American Sephardi Federation.