Venice, Italy, is one of the most stunning and unique cities in the world. It consists of 117 islands connected by more than 400 bridges and over 150 canals. Cars are banned, so the only way to get around is by foot or by water. The Grand Canal is the main thoroughfare, lined with beautiful buildings.
When vacationing in Venice, taking a gondola ride on The Grand Canal is a must. Going on a walking tour of the city rich in art, architecture and sheer beauty is a given, and visiting the Jewish Ghetto is an experience you don’t want to miss.
Venice’s Jewish Ghetto was the first ghetto… anywhere. The word ghetto comes from the Italian word getto meaning “casting” and Venetian geto meaning “foundry.”
This little area remains completely unchanged, dark and brimming with Jewish history,housing five synagogues, a Jewish bookstore, a Jewish publishing house, a social center, a rest home, a museum, a yeshiva and a kosher restaurant.
The history of Jews in Venice is a long one. They first settled there in 1385. In 1516, a time of racism forced them to move to this little ghetto, where the gates were locked at night.
The first Jews to arrive were central European Ashkenazim. They were allowed to leave the ghetto during the day, but were marked as Jews. Men were forced to wear a yellow circle on their left shoulders and women wore a yellow scarf. Later, the men’s circle became a yellow beret and still later a red one.
The Spanish, Portuguese and Levanite Jews came next in the late 16th century. They were given their own ghetto, which was attached to the other. Despite the poor living conditions, Jewish community life flourished, centering on Jewish customs and the celebration of the Sabbath.
The Ashkenazi Jews built two synagogues, the Scola Grande Tedesca in 1528-29 and the Scola Canton in 1531. The Levantine Jews, who had more money, built an extravagant synagogue in 1575, and the Spanish Jews built their own synagogue in 1584. Life continued to thrive.
The 17th century was the ghetto’s golden age; Jewish commerce and scholarship grew. Jews controlled much of Venice’s foreign trade. Then commercial activity halted when the plague hit the Jewish community in the summer of 1630. An estimated 450 Jews lost their lives, and many merchants chose to leave the city.
Afterwards the Jewish community recovered, and the ghetto’s boundaries were expanded. The Nuovissimo ghetto was opened to house wealthy Jewish residents.
The economic conditions deteriorated at the end of the 17th century, due to Anti-Jewish sentiment. The Jewish population decreased from 4,800, in 1655 to a mere 1,700 in 1766, because many prominent families decided to leave for other port cities.
Conditions deteriorated further in 1737, when due to extremely high taxes, the Jewish community had to declare bankruptcy. Then, in 1797, everything changed. Napoleon’s troops reached Venice and declared that Jews no longer had to live in the ghetto. Many chose to stay there, but the wealthy Jews left to live in other parts of the city.
After Italy’s unification, in 1866, Venetian Jewry achieved an equal status. Luigi Luzzati began his career in politics and was elected Italy’s first Jewish Prime Minister in 1910.
Things remained copasetic until shortly after World War I, when the atmosphere grew tense and chased many Jews from the city. About 1,200 Jews were living in Venice when German troops occupied the city in 1943, and 205 people were transported to concentration camps. At the end of World War II, 1,500 Jews were living in Venice and the number gradually decreased over the years. By 1965, 844 Jews remained.
Today Venice has a Jewish population of about 500; only 30 live in the former ghetto, which nonetheless still houses all of the city’s major Jewish institutions.
This rich history is palpable when you walk down the streets of the ghetto. In the Jewish Museum, Museo Ebraico, you’ll find old Seder plates and spice boxes.
Located to the left of the Museum is the oldest synagogue in the ghetto, the Tedesca or German Synagogue. It was restored in 1848, 1860, 1910 and 1975.
The synagogue’s service room houses the Museum of Hebrew Art.
On the right side of the Museum is the Canton Synagogue. It served as the center for Jews from Germany, France and Switzerland. There you’ll find a beautiful ark with carved and gilded doors. It has been restored and altered a number of times and is still in use today for wedding ceremonies.
The Italian Synagogue is quite simple, reflecting its status among the communities. It was restored to its original appearance in 1970.
In the ghetto, there is also a kosher grocery store, as well as a delicious kosher restaurant, which you must try when you visit.
Other sites of Jewish interest in Venice include a stone with an engraved Star of David found in St. Mark’s Cathedral, which according to legend was brought to Venice from the Temple in Jerusalem. Above the stone is a mosaic of Moses. Mosaics of King Solomon, Joseph and Abraham can also be found in the cathedral.
If you’re lucky enough to vacation in Venice soon, be sure to take a ride on the Grand Canal and see all the usual tourist sights, and don’t forget to visit the ghetto, so you can feel the Jewish history for yourself.
