NATALIE SENIOR GREENBERG
THIERRY MUGLER: COUTURISSIME IS AN EXCITING, CREATIVE, EXTRAVAGANT EXHIBITION ENCOMPASSING THE ICONIC FASHION DESIGNER THIERRY MUGLER’S CAREER. IT IS COMPRISED OF OVER 130 HAUTE COUTURE LOOKS, DOZENS OF FASHION PHOTOGRAPHS AND VIDEOS OF INSPIRING AND GROUNDBREAKING FASHION. IT WILL BE ON DISPLAY UNTIL MAY, 2023.
The French designer Thierry Mugler, who passed away in early 2022, had lived in New York City for many years, and Brooklyn was very inspirational to his fashion and creativity. Therefore it is important and wonderful to have this exhibit shown in Brooklyn. It was so enjoyable to view the many fashion photos that featured New York City, and included fashion stars such as Lady Gaga, Kylie Jenner, Beyonce and Cardi B, all of whom Mugler designed for.
Mugler always disliked the idea of the retrospective, an exhibition or compilation showing the development of the work of a particular artist over a period of time. So, when approached by curators from the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, where this show was first shown, Mugler was promised that the exhibition would not be just a boring chronological tour of clothing. The fashions are arranged into themes and his work is put into a much more approachable and relatable context of what fashion now represents in the world.
The exhibit begins with fashions that Mugler designed for the stage, including an elaborate cage dress designed for Lady Macbeth.
The fashion photography is incredible. Most of the famous fashion photographers of the last few decades, such as Helmut Newton, Herb Ritts, David la Chapelle, Sara Moon, and Guy Bourdin are represented, and all collaborated with Mugler. Especially interesting and beautiful were the fashion photos of models in unusual locals, such as Greenland and the Sahara Desert. There were photos of models perched on New York City skyscrapers, such as the Chrysler Building and models juxtaposed against international architecture with unusual shapes. All were stunning and thought-provoking.
The Celebrity Section highlights fashions designed specifically for David Bowie, Diana Ross and Madonna. It’s amazing because it brings back memories of a very special time in fashion and culture. In this section, there is a fashion video of George Michael’s “Too Funky,” which was co- directed by Mugler and features many supermodels from the 80s and 90s. It was fun to watch this video and pick out all the supermodels that I recognized.
Another area dedicated to futuristic fashion shows Mugler’s inspiration from comic-book heroines and science fiction. The aerodynamic and robot-style looks he invented are now iconic. Leather, rubber, plastic, metal and fabric are all manipulated in truly original and ingenious ways.
The show concludes with Metamorphosis; extremely imaginative designs inspired by the natural world. Birds, butterflies, insects, undersea creatures and reptiles are all inspirations for Mugler’s fantastical fashion interpretations. These creations are the most elaborate and visionary of the entire show and are truly works of art. The beadwork, sequins, fabrics and embroidery are couture fashion at its best.
This multimedia extravaganza has stage settings created by film designers and does not disappoint in keeping a visitor’s interest. Moving from room to room, one encounters an assortment of mannequins, videos, drawings and stage sets. The compilation of this exhibit is just as creative as the designer at the center of it all. If you’re a fashion or art lover, put it on your things to do list for a cold, winter day.
Natalie Senior Greenberg is a Brooklyn College Art History professor, and the founder, curator and owner of an online art gallery.
